When it comes to knowing how to Replace and Iveco Daily Battery, you’re probably wondering where to start. Where is the battery? And how to you remove it?
The battery is hidden away behind a panel on the passenger side of the vehicle and looks difficult to get so, but with a little patience, it’s actually very easy to get to.
How Replace and Iveco Daily Battery
Step one: locate the battery cover at the passenger step and remove the cover to reveal the battery
Step two: remove the 5 torque screws from the step trim surround
Step three: carefully push the wheel arch trim aside to remove the step trim surround – you now have access to the battery
Step four: loosen the 10mm nut on the negative battery terminal
Step five: loosen the 10mm nut on the positive terminal (look closely under the black electric cover as it’s hidden underneath
Step six: undo the 10mm bolt holding the battery clamp in place. Remove the battery and fit the new battery in reverse order
Remember to never allow positive and negative wires to touch and never allow metal tools to short across the battery terminals.
I’ve connected the battery but the locks aren’t working and it won’t start
Iveco’s have an annoying habit of losing their coding when a battery goes flat for a prolonged period. The only way to resolve this problem is to have the vehicle taken to a main dealer and the keys re-programmed to the vehicle.
Watch a video on How Replace and Iveco Daily Battery
I made a video to help you see how the battery is removed. It’s really straight forward if you take your time.
The UK needs Stronger Laws to Force Driver’s to Switch Off Engines Whilst Waiting in Traffic. Some countries have been doing this for many years. In Germany it’s the law that you must switch off your engine whilst queuing or waiting at crossings.
I first experienced this in Munich in 1994 when I was staying with a German family on a school exchange. Whilst waiting at a level crossing the mother switched her Volvo off. When I enquired as to why she said it was law. It’s covered by Section 30 of the StVO (German Road Traffic Licensing Regulations) which states:
“When operating a vehicle it is forbidden to produce undue noise and avoidable air pollution from exhaust fumes. Especially prohibited is the unnecessary idling of engines.” – Section 30 of the StVO
According to the LImSchG (Federal Emission Control Act) and the StVO it is against the law to wilfully and knowingly violate these paragraphs and violation of those rules can result in a heavy fine. It seems that Germany has been taking the issue of pollution seriously way before the United Kingdom.
It’s already UK law to switch off an engine whilst waiting
Few people realise that vehicle idling is already an offence in the UK against the Road Traffic (Vehicle Emissions) (Fixed Penalty) (England) Regulations 2002. The law states that is an offence to idle your engine unnecessarily when stationary. If you fail to turn your engine off after being spoken to you may be issued with a fixed penalty notice of £20.However, it does not apply to vehicles moving slowly due to road works or congestion, or vehicles stopped at traffic lights.
What is needed are stronger fines with more enforcement by local authorities and better education for drivers. Some traffic light junctions can take 3 to 5 minutes to make a complete so switching off definitely has advantages in combating pollution and saving fuel.
Switching off an engine can considerably reduce engine emmisions
It’s a fact that if more drivers switch off their engines, emissions will drop. A report carried out in New York City showed that idling cars and trucks produce 130,000 tons of carbon dioxide each year. Switching off is good for the environment, good for your health and good for your wallet.
Drivers are being warned as the DVLA Clamps Untaxed Vehicles at the roadside of the road if they fail to pay for Vehicle Excise Duty (road tax).
The DVLA and Local Authorities are carrying our sweeps of major towns and cities across the UK as they look for vehicles where drivers have failed to pay road tax. These photos were capture on Mersea Road, Colchester, Essex, on 17th February 2017.
Vehicles fitted with Automatic Number Plate Recognition (ANPR) technology are being utilised by the DVLA quickly identify vehicles which are untaxed. The vehicles are then clamped with bright yellow wheel clamps; both serving as embarrassment to the owner and a warning to other drivers.
The move comes as a result of millions of drivers failing to tax their vehicles since the tax disc was abolished for an online only system in October 2014. As a result, the number of untaxed vehicle rose to over 560,00 in the summer of 2015.
The DVLA Clamps Untaxed Vehicles where drivers have tried to dodge VED
Seemingly, some vehicle owners believe that the lack of a tax disc displayed in the vehicle means that they can get away without insuring it. However, the modern ANPR system can tell officials if a vehicle has tax or insurance within a matter of seconds by querying the DVLA and Motor Insurers databases.
The real cost of driving without road tax
The DVLA clamps untaxed vehicles and then charges to have the impounded vehicle released. There is a £100 release fee plus the price of the road tax. A vehicle not taxed within 24 hours may be removed and destroyed after 7 days.
The clamps can be fitted by the DVLA, the police, local councils and VOSA.
The message is clear: if you can’t afford to tax your vehicle, it shouldn’t be used on the road. Sooner or later you’ll be caught.
Motorists faced another evening of misery as the A12 was CLOSED in BOTH DIRECTIONS due to a lorry falling from a bridge and landing on the southbound carriageway at Coleman’s Bridge, Witham. The northbound carriageway reopened at 17:40hrs.
Police closed the road from Marks Tey to Boreham, and witnesses described hearing a large explosion and seeing smoke. Police advised drivers to avoid the area completely and the Air Ambulance attended.
Witnesses described the scene as ‘unbelievable’ and ‘chaotic’. Delays were reported in the area and Witham is described as ‘gridlocked’.
Cranking time exceeded is a code which will occur on certain models of Fords (such as the Ford Fiesta, Focus, Mode, Taurus and F150). It happens when an attempt to start the vehicle has occurred for more than 60 seconds in total, without the vehicle starting.
The cranking time exceeded system is designed to stop a fuel pump running ‘dry’ i.e. without any fuel to lubricate it and is most common either after a vehicle has run out of fuel, or as a result of replacing the fuel filter.
What to do if you receive a ‘cranking time exceeded’ warning
Even if you have a code reader, you’re not going to be able to reset or clear the code. The only way to get rid of the error is to wait 15 to 30 minutes (depending on the model) and then try again.
Ensure you have fuel
It sounds obvious, but without fuel, this fault with continue to occur. Make sure there is some.
Ensure you have primed the fuel system
If you’ve run out of diesel fuel, or changed the fuel filter, you need to ensure that you have purged the system of air or the engine isn’t going to start and you’ll continue to get ‘Cranking time exceeded’ message. You’ll just be suck air and the system won’t push fuel through. This should only be done by someone who knows what they’re doing. If you don’t know how to do this, don’t do it!
If you’ve replaced the fuel filter, make sure you fill it with fuel before you attempt to start the vehicle
Use a diesel priming kit, or a tube with a non-return valve and attach it to the output of the filter. Pump until all air is removed
If necessary, repeat step 2 on the pipe before the fuel rail
Put the wrong fuel in a car? Don’t panic! There are often things you can do to prevent expensive vehicle recovery and garage repair bills.
Accidentally putting diesel into a petrol (gas) tank
This scenario is definitely the lesser of the two evils. Petrol engines rely on an explosion of fuel to run, and as diesel is much more difficult to ignite you’re not going to get far before the car brakes down. It’s unlikely to do any damage to any of the engine components other than lubricate them (although it may damage the catalytic converter if fitted).
Just like above, if you’ve only put a little diesel in the tank just fill it up with petrol to dilute it and you should be on your way.
Putting petrol into a diesel car accidentally
The reality is that modern diesels are finely tuned to use the fuel as efficiently as possible, and putting a large amount of petrol into a diesel and then running it won’t do the car much good. For example, the fuel pump on a diesel relies on the lubricating effect of the diesel to keep it lubricated and stop it from seizing.
If you’ve put a small amount of petrol in your diesel car don’t panic. Most people realise within the first gallon that they’ve made a mistake and there is a quick fix that will get you on your way again without causing any damage (and with no expensive repair bills.
Fill the tank up with diesel.
The average fuel tank of a car is around 65 litres. So if you’ve only got 5 litres of petrol in it, adding filling the tank full will dilute the diesel significantly enough to make it safe to drive and have you on your way. You’ll probably notice absolutely no difference.
In fact, in some countries people deliberately add petrol to a diesel tank to stop the diesel solidifying in the tank and lines (which can make a car difficult to start). My friend does this in the cold winters in Canada.
If you’ve put the wrong fuel in a car you definitely don’t want to run a diesel car on petrol only, but diluting 10% to 90% is very unlikely to do any damage at all and will get you on the way.
I’ve filled the tank completely with the wrong fuel – what should I do?
This is a much bigger problem that just adding a little fuel, and you’re going to have to seek the advice of a professional.
The only way you’re going to remove the fuel is to drain the tank. As most modern cars have an anti-syphoning device fitted to prevent people stealing your fuel you’re very unlikely to be able to get any sort of device into the tank to do this yourself. In addition, almost no fuel tanks have a drain point and almost all have tank sender units at the top (under the rear seats), not the bottom.
Some points to remember:
Petroleum (gas) is a highly flammable liquid. Never do anything which might risk exposure.
Petrol vapour is also highly volatile and should only be removed in controlled conditions – away from sources of ignition (including mobile phones)
Petrol burns skin – never attempt to syphon it using your mouth if you’ve put the wrong fuel in a car. The fumes are also very dangerous to the lungs
Although diesel has a higher flash point than petrol it’s still a chemical and should always be treated as such
I’m afraid that at this point it’s time to call your garage or breakdown company.
I’ve put the wrong fuel in a car and the tank needs emptying. How much should it cost?
The cost of having the wrong fuel removed will depend on a number of factors, including:
How easy it is to access the tank
The labour rate that your repair garage charges
Callout charges (if you can’t get the vehicle to them)
The cost of disposing of contaminated fuel
Some breakdown services will offer a free service to people who have put the wrong fuel in a car, so check with them if you have cover.
My garage is telling me I need to have the entire fuel system replaced. Is this correct?
In general, no.
Sadly, however, there are some garages who will tell you that you must have the entire system replaced. This is usually to cover their back (in case of future problems) or because your vehicle is covered by warranty.
In reality it’s very unlikely that every part is going to need to be replaced. The most common problems will be:
a damaged fuel pump
a damaged catalytic converter
If your garage if telling you that you need the entire lot replaced, ask them to replace the injectors and fuel pump. Once replaced, they can run an emissions check on the catalytic converter. If the catalyst is OK then there’s really no point in replacing it and it will save you a small fortune.
How to prevent putting the wrong fuel in a car
There are some ways that you can avoid putting the wrong fuel in a car. These include:
Flat car battery or starter motor broken? Don’t panic! Start your car with rope and get yourself out of a tricky situation if your car battery is dead and you’re on your own. It will only work on cars with manual transmission (and will probably work better in petrol engines which are easier to turnover from cold) but only requires some rope and a jack.
How to start your car with rope
As you can see from the video below, you need to carefully carry out the following procedure at your own risk to car with rope – don’t blame me if you cut your arm off:
Jack the car up on one side connected to the drive (front wheel drive cars are usually easier to start)
Put the car into 1st gear
Make sure that the handbrake is fully engaged
Switch on the ignition to the start position
Take a long length of rope and wrap it around the wheel, as per the video
Pull the rope as hard as you can. All being well, the engine will start
One the engine is running, take the car out of gear
Allow the wheel to stop rotating (or put your foot on the brake to stop it)
Lower the car to the ground
How does it work?
By putting the car into gear and then spinning one of the wheels connected to the gearbox, you are manually taking over the place of the starter motor. By turning the wheel quickly, you turn the driveshaft which is connected to the gearbox, which is in turn connected to the engine. As you turn the wheel, that energy is transferred to the engine and cranks it over; just like a starter motor.
As long as you put enough energy into spinning the wheel (which is where the rope helps) and as long as your car is otherwise mechanically sound, the engine should start.
It’s just like the old fashioned method of starting a car using a cranking handle.
We have begun to notice an increasing trend with various police forces across the UK, in particular the Met Police, when attending Road Traffic Collisions. The Police refusing to give third party details after an accident; but they shouldn’t be.
Lately, the police are taking reports from all drivers involved in the collision (and witnesses) and then telling those involved to tell their insurers to contact the police and quote an incident number. Customers of insurers – perhaps still in shock or confused as they have never had an accident before – leave the scene with no third party details. In some cases we have seen the police are failing to provide drivers with the minimal information required to make a claim (i.e. third party vehicle registration) which can cause a real headache when it comes to making a motor claim. The Police know this, which is why they’ll try and charge you for the third party details.
In most cases where you hold fully comprehensive insurance this isn’t a huge problem unless you need a replacement hire vehicle. Most credit hire companies will require the details of the third party before they will hire to you and without the third party details you won’t get a hire car. The problem then starts when you call the police to obtain the details, at which point they tell you there will be a charge (around £85) for the police to release them. Not only is there a charge but also you have to apply in writing and it can take weeks – sometimes months – for them to arrive.
This is an even bigger headache if you only hold third party cover as your insurer is unlikely to request the information at all.
What to do if the Police are refusing to give third party details after an accident
What the police don’t tell you is that you are legally entitled to the information completely free of charge by simply requesting them under Section 154 of the Road Traffic Act 1988. Section 154(b) of the Act states:
(1)A person against whom a claim is made in respect of any such liability as is required to be covered by a policy of insurance under section 145 of this Act must, on demand by or on behalf of the person making the claim—
(b)if he was or would have been so insured, or had or would have had in force such a security—
(i)give such particulars with respect to that policy or security as were specified in any certificate of insurance or security delivered in respect of that policy or security, as the case may be, under section 147 of this Act, or
(ii)where no such certificate was delivered under that section, give the following particulars, that is to say, the registration mark or other identifying particulars of the vehicle concerned, the number or other identifying particulars of the insurance policy issued in respect of the vehicle, the name of the insurer and the period of the insurance cover.
It goes without saying but if you are involved in a collision make sure you get the third party details and, at a minimum, the vehicle registration and regardless of what the police say to you. It will cause you fewer problems progressing your claim and save a potential headache. You’d be surprised at the number of customers we have who “forget”.
So, if Police refusing to give third party details after an accident is becoming a problem, put your foot down and remind them of your rights. If they still refuse you should complain.
During this damp winter I’ve found it increasingly difficult to demist my old Volkswagen Golf in the morning. I’m guessing that I have a leak somewhere, but I’m not able to find it. So it left me wondering how to get rid of condensation in a car.
The causes of condensation
Working out why you’re car has condensation is going to help you prevent it in the future. The problem with older cars is that they develop lots of places where water can ingress over time. For example, as door seals begin to perish and crack it may allow rain water to enter the cabin of the car. A sunroof can also leak as can a boot seal.
Understand that water always takes the easiest path
Just because you think you know where the water is coming from, doesn’t mean it actually is coming form their. Understanding how to get rid of condensation in a car means understanding that water can enter from all sorts of places. A leak in a sunroof, for example, can run along the inside of a roof to the back seats and drip on the seat.
Evaporating water is causing condensation in your car
Whenever you get water in your car (even from old coffee cups or the like), the moisture will evaporate and eventually stick to the cold glass windows. This then causes condensation on the inside of the glass. Even wet shoes can leave water on the carpet which in time will evaporate and cause condensation.
How to get rid of condensation in a car
There are a number of things that you can do to get rid of condensation, and most of them are free and easy. These include:
air the vehicle as often as possible – leave a window open slightly
use a garage if available
remove all rubbish, in particular drinks and food
remove wet clothing such as coats
use your A/C – even in the winter the A/C will remove moisture from the atmosphere (which is why you get a little puddle under the car in the summer)
Don’t use silicon based products
There are a number of different silicon based products on the market which claim to reduce condensation, called ‘anti fog repellents‘. The products leave a horrible film on the inside of the glass which can blur your vision and which are horrible to get rid of. Don’t be fooled by the claims of the manufacturers as these make a real mess of your car windscreen and offer nothing more than a wiping the screen with a synthetic chamois.
Other reading on How to get rid of condensation in a car
I recently discovered an article called ‘How to Get Rid of Condensation and Damp in your car‘ which was packed full of loads of information on how to prevent the constant damp problem in the car. It also provide lots of ways to stop condensation appearing in the first place.
Both resources where very useful and although I haven’t been able to completely cure the problem, I’ve definitely been able to improve it. So if you’re wondering how to get rid of condensation in a car, take a look at those articles or better still, leave your own ideas and tricks below.
First of all, let me get this clear. There will be no Back to the Future jokes in this post regarding the DeLorean. None.
The DeLorean Motor Company has annouced intentions to start building a small amount of new DeLorean motor cars in 2017 after settling an out-of-court legal battle with John DeLorean’s widow, Sally, who claimed the Texas-based DeLorean Motor Company had been illegally using the DeLorean name.
The move would see the original DeLorean DMC-12 tooling and presses being used to build replicas of the infamous car but using off-the-shelf engines and transmission from another manufacturer.
Changes in the law have allowed production to commence
DeLorean have been able to use a new section of US Law, the “Low Volume Motor Vehicle Manufacturers Act”, which DeLorean say “creates a reasonable regulatory structure allowing small companies to produce a limited number of completed replica motor vehicles that resemble the appearance of cars produced 25 years ago or more”.
DeLorean will buy crated engines from another manufacturer
The new cars would have to be fitted with a modern engine (motor if you’re American) to ensure that the cars would pass stringent emissions tests. It would simply cost too much for the manufacturer to design and build their own engines as they only intend to build around 300 cars a year. This means that the car is likely to get to 88mph much faster than the original DMC-12. D’oh! I made a Back to the Future reference.
What will a new DMC-12 cost?
The cars are expected to retail for between $80,000 and £100,000; around £62,000.
There will be no new models
Despite the internet and social media suggesting that there have been concepts drawn up in plans for an all-new model of DeLorean the company has no current plans to launch a new model.